Understanding AHA and BHA: The Key to Clear Skin

Published: May 10, 2024

Hydroxy acids have been used for over 40 years to help individuals achieve clear, radiant, and healthy skin. The two main types, alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), are active ingredients in many skincare products, treating a wide range of skin concerns.

Both AHAs and BHAs act as chemical exfoliants, helping to improve the look of sun-damaged skin, promote smoother skin texture, and reduce signs of aging. However, they differ in how they work and target specific skin concerns.

Common types of AHAs include glycolic, lactic, and citric acids, while the most popular BHA is salicylic acid. By understanding their unique properties, you can make informed choices for your skincare routine. Let's explore the differences between AHAs and BHAs, how to incorporate them safely, and their benefits for your skin.

"Formulas exist for any type or condition of skin, and everyone can benefit from the renewing, stimulating and brightening effects, creating a 'clean slate' that maximizes product absorption to unveil vibrant skin every day."

Elisabeth Nehme,

Board Certified Esthetician and [ comfort zone ] Master Educator

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What is AHA and How Does It Benefit the Skin?

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are a group of chemical compounds that come from various fruit and milk sugars and are now used in cosmetics and dermatology. These compounds are water-soluble and work together to gently exfoliate the skin, resulting in a softer, smoother texture. Common AHAs found in skincare products are glycolic acid (from sugar cane), lactic acid (from milk), and citric acid (from citrus fruits).

AHAs are an ideal choice for minimizing signs of aging by improving the skin’s overall texture and appearance. Their benefits include:

Making the face smoother by removing dead skin cells.
Improving skin texture by reducing roughness and dry patches.
Fading hyperpigmentation, dark spots, and sun damage, leading to a more even skin tone.
Reducing fine lines and deep wrinkles by stimulating collagen production, which gives the skin its shape and flexibility.
Offering hydrating properties to nourish the skin.
Enhancing the absorption and effectiveness of other skincare products.
Protecting the skin from the effects of unprotected sun exposure.

What is BHA and How Does It Benefit the Skin?

Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are a type of exfoliating acid that deeply penetrates the skin to provide numerous benefits. Unlike AHAs, which primarily work on the skin’s surface, BHAs work by entering the pores of the skin, making them especially effective for treating acne. BHAs are commonly found in acne products designed to address blackheads and blemishes, and they can also be found in combination products that incorporate both AHAs and BHAs. BHAs are an excellent choice for individuals with acne-prone or oily skin types due to their ability to reduce blackheads, whiteheads, and other blemishes.

When it comes to skin care products, beta-hydroxy acid usually means salicylic acid. Some of the key benefits of incorporating a BHA into your skincare routine include:

Unclogging clogged pores by penetrating oil.
Promoting cell turnover (release of dead skin cells) to reveal fresh skin.
Preventing acne breakouts, blackheads, and whiteheads through exfoliation.
Offering gentle exfoliation that is ideal for sensitive skin and acne-prone skin.

The Difference Between AHA and BHA

Although hydroxy acids have similarities, like improving overall skin texture and tone, there are differences to consider when navigating which ingredient is best for your skin. One of their key differences is that

AHAs are water-soluble, and BHAs are oil-soluble. This means that AHAs work on the surface of the skin, while BHAs penetrate deep into the pores of the skin.
AHAs are ideal for reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, while BHAs target acne, blackheads, and congested pores.

Another difference lies in their strength concentration:

Typically, BHAs are considered less mild between the two due to their slightly larger molecules. This may feel less irritating for some individuals with sensitive skin.
AHAs are considered a more aggressive type of exfoliant which can increase sun sensitivity, therefore making it essential to apply an SPF after use.

How To Incorporate AHA and BHA Into Your Skincare Routine

Adding alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) into your skincare routine can work wonders for your complexion, especially when targeting specific skin conditions with the right products for your skin type. However, it's important to start with lower concentrations when introducing these acids to your skin.

Begin with a gentle cleanser, toner, serum, or exfoliating mask. Use AHAs and BHAs once or twice a week at first to allow your skin to adjust. As your skin tolerates the acids, you can gradually increase the frequency of use. For those with dry skin or sensitive skin, choose milder AHAs like lactic acid, and opt for BHAs with soothing ingredients to prevent skin irritation.

You can continue using targeted serums such as retinol or vitamin C after applying AHAs or BHAs. Always follow up with a moisturizer and use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher to protect your skin after using acids.

Tips for Choosing AHA and BHA Products

Whether you choose AHAs like glycolic and lactic acids, or BHAs like salicylic acid, incorporating these ingredients into your skincare routine can make a significant difference. One product designed specifically for exfoliation is the [ comfort zone ] Skin Regimen Glyco-Lacto Peel.

This peel combines AHAs such as glycolic acid and lactic acids to brighten, smooth, and hydrate your skin. With regular use, it can help fade dark spots, reduce signs of aging, and enhance skin texture. For optimal results, use it in the evening, leaving it on for five to 10 minutes before rinsing it off and continuing with your regular skincare routine.

Common Misconceptions About AHA and BHA

Though AHAs and BHAs are popular in the skincare industry for their ability to rejuvenate and clarify the skin, there are still some misconceptions about these ingredients. Here are a few of the most common misunderstandings:

Misconception 1: AHAs and BHAs are the same. While they are both chemical exfoliants, they work differently and target distinct skin concerns.
Misconception 2: AHAs and BHAs are harsh and damaging. In reality, when used properly and in appropriate concentrations, they can gently slough off dead skin cells, improving skin texture and appearance without causing damaged or irritated skin.
Misconception 3: AHAs and BHAs make the skin more sensitive to the sun. AHAs can temporarily increase sun sensitivity, while BHAs typically have less impact. As long as daily sunscreen is applied, you can effectively safeguard against sun-damaged skin.
Misconception 4: AHAs and BHAs cannot be used together.AHAs and BHAs can work well together in a skincare routine, effectively addressing multiple skin concerns when used properly. For optimal results, alternate their use on different days.

Revitalize Your Skin with AHAs and BHAs

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) can enhance your complexion by targeting different skin concerns effectively. AHAs work to improve skin texture and diminish signs of aging, while BHAs penetrate pores to tackle excess oil production, acne, and congestion. Start by using them slowly, choose products that suit your skin type, and always use sunscreen to protect your skin.